Amari at LUX* Belle Mare has been Chef Vineet Bhatia’s Mauritian home for a decade. A new look warranted a new menu to celebrate the resort’s reopening in October 2023 after a devastating fire, enabling him and his team to reimagine their culinary offering in an exceptional environment. The result is even more soothing for body, mind and soul than before, as Debbie Hathway finds out.

Derived from the Sanskrit (amar) meaning ‘immortal, eternal’, Amari at LUX* Belle Mare intertwines a culinary narrative bridging the flavours of India and Mauritius. Guided by the esteemed Vineet Bhatia MBE, hailed as the pioneer of modern Indian cuisine, the menu manifests his lifelong gastronomic odyssey. Rooted in diverse influences and underscored by the profound belief in food as a universal language fostering connections, Amari embodies Chef Vineet’s enduring passion for spices and flavours and LUX* Resorts’ “spirited, creative, caring, and tasteful hospitality brand [established] to help people celebrate life.”

I met Vineet at another luxury resort in Mauritius before opening Amari, and our paths have crossed many times since. We chatted then over a searing hot tandoor oven as he baked naan bread for guests eager to sample his fare under the stars on a moonlit night on a secluded east-coast peninsula. That serendipitous conversation inspired a feature piece, marking the genesis of my unwavering admiration. Since then, I’ve been a devoted patron, frequenting Amari by Vineet (now simply named Amari) at LUX* Belle Mare, tracing the coastline from our inaugural encounter point, and indulging in the culinary delights at Rasoi by Vineet in Geneva on multiple occasions before its pandemic-induced closure.

Over the years, Amari has flourished under the adept stewardship of Chef de Cuisine Subi Mungroo and his proficient team, comprising talents like Tandoor Chef Sandeep Lodeechun, Sous Chef Ravi Dookhun, Chef de Partie (Curry section) Swaraj (Kunal) Ramgoolam, and Rajiv Gangaram. 

Hands-on, always

Chef Vineet periodically returns to infuse the menu with fresh perspectives, turning visits into family holidays whenever possible. This time, he and Rashima, his wife and business partner, were there to supervise Amari’s renovation and oversee the finishing touches before the much-heralded reopening of LUX* Belle Mare on October 1, 2023. The resort has been so successful that the Forbes Travel Guide awarded it five stars for 2024.

Rashima recounted their odyssey in reimagining the culinary landscape, preserving Amari’s essence while subtly evolving its ambience over the past seven years. Reflecting on their enduring connection to Mauritius, she said that much like their evolving perception of this enchanting island, Amari encapsulates a journey of transformation and growth, resonating with their culinary ethos and life’s trajectory.

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“In many ways, we approached the concept the way we felt about Mauritius [in the beginning] and how we feel at this point in our lives. We’ve been coming to the island as a family since 2001, but Vineet first touched these shores in 1992, so his recollection and memory of Mauritius as an island place is from that time. In 2001, we experienced a different Mauritius. And now, when we visit, it’s completely different again. So, how do we feel about that?

“And also from our stage of life, where we are now, and his [position] as a chef… he’s not stopped evolving but he’s stopped cooking to please. He’s no longer that student trying to get a foothold or that chef trying to sustain himself and please his partners or investors; it’s not the case anymore. Today, he’s very much about, ‘What do I want to do? What resonates with me? What am I happy eating? What am I happy cooking?’”

The revamped Amari menu is a testament to Chef Vineet’s maturation as a culinary maestro and his unwavering commitment to sustainability and holistic well-being. Embracing the intrinsic fusion of Indian and Mauritian cuisines, each dish reflects a harmonious interplay of flavours and textures, curated to satiate discerning palates.

Design Nuances

In contrast to traditional Indian eateries, Amari’s aesthetic diverges, courtesy of the visionary Jean-Marc Tang’s innovative design ethos, which evokes a tropical tapestry through a palette of coral, blush, and sand hues. His artistic vision transcends conventional paradigms, imbuing Amari with a serene, spa-like ambience that beckons guests on a sensory journey.

Rashima adds: “I think Jean-Marc has done a very good job because what we have right now is a very different take on Indian food ambience-wise. You have a very natural, holistic Indian appeal, down to the terracotta walls. Nothing else is there. Not one artefact, picture or wall hanging. When it was coming together from a design point of view, before the tables had gone in, I would have said it passed as a very good spa. It has this serenity and calmness to it, because of the very tasteful calamine, terracotta colour.”

And that lack of paintings or wall hangings makes the space so unique. The solution may have been wallpaper in other parts of the world, but Jean-Marc sourced local artisans to paint just one mural in a style deeply rooted in Indian culture, yet it was pretty uncommon. The main characteristic is its composition of dots and lines representing movement. “It’s a tribal art called Gond, named after one of the largest and oldest tribes in India. They occupied the central plateau, and they would draw these murals or paintings around their house. They were all about connecting with nature, so they drew the fish, birds, trees, and plants around them,” says Rashima. “And that is what we have here because we are surrounded by nature. The tree stands for spirituality, or connection to God, extending from earth to heaven as one of the tallest living things, so it’s all positive energy. So, for us, it was one more representation of the Indian aspect that perhaps is not very well known and people will ask about it.”

Mauritian Craftsmanship

A testament to their reverence for indigenous craftsmanship, Jean-Marc collaborated with local artisans to craft bespoke furnishings, echoing the organic allure of Mauritius’s landscape. Rashima’s design sensibilities seamlessly integrate with this narrative, accentuating the restaurant’s earthy charm with stoneware and tableware reminiscent of the island’s natural splendour.

Amidst these transformations, the restaurant’s entrance has undergone a subtle yet transformative shift. It ushers guests through a curved tunnel suffused with soft illumination, gradually revealing the culinary sanctum within. “You come out not quite at the centre. It slowly reveals itself. And that, I think, is the best part of the Amari renovation,” says Rashima.

The larger kitchen contains three tandoori ovens, visible through extensive windows that enable patrons to watch some of the food preparation and gesture to the staff, who appear unhurried, calm, and smiling – awaiting feedback on their delectable presentations.

I was one of the first journalists to dine there after the reopening, an experience I often revisit in my mind’s eye. I had a no-alcohol cocktail comprising cassis, raspberry, Darjeeling tea and sugar, followed by one of the starters Rashima had mentioned – the Lattice Samosa Chaat, a vegetarian dish involving a vegetable samosa, chickpeas, tamarind, and herb chutneys. I opted for the Lemongrass Chilli Coconut Prawns (coastal preparation of prawns in lemongrass, coconut, Kaffir lime and chilli flakes) as the main course, saving room for my new favourite dessert – Turmeric Tres Leches (cinnamon coconut-pineapple basundi, Mauritian vanilla-pineapple cream, almond bark). A light, not-too-sweet finish to the meal, Turmeric Tres Leches redefines the term “melt in the mouth” and left me wishing for seconds.

Thinking back, there’s one element available only at Amari that can’t be bought or trained: Mauritian staff who make you feel like one of the family. Mauritians are renowned for their hospitality, but I have yet to discover a team that delivers a more authentic, welcoming, familial service than this one. Seating is limited, so make it a point to book when you check in. It’s one of several special LUX* Belle Mare experiences you don’t want to miss.

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