Review: Four Seasons Hotel Astir Palace (Athens, Greece)

Wednesday newsletters always feature a hotel or flight review.

Today: Four Seasons Hotel Astir Palace (Greece)

Hotel website: Four Seasons Hotel Astir Palace
Location: Google maps
Tip: get complimentary VIP perks when booking via Virtuoso

On the sophisticated Athens Riviera, at the tip of a pine-clad peninsula, Four Seasons Hotel Astir Palace offers the best of both worlds: a laid-back seaside escape just 30 minutes from the historical city center. Guests can discover the wonders of ancient civilization at the Acropolis, then return to Four Seasons to unwind and relax. Astir Palace came to life in the 1960s, as the area gained pace as a seaside resort, drawing a crowd that spanned from Greek royalty, to Hollywood glitterati and elite jetsetters, and reopened as a Four Seasons property in 2019 following a $700 million USD renovation. Consisting of two different buildings, the fabulous property features 8 restaurants and bars, three pools, a spa center with 10 treatment rooms, a fitness center and an expansive shoreline comprising three private beaches. Astir Palace ranks among the best luxury hotel I’ve ever stayed at.

Have you ever stayed at Four Seasons Hotel Astir Palace in Athens? If so, what was your experience? Leave a comment.

Four Seasons Hotel Astir Palace features in my top 10 lists of the best luxury hotels in Greece and the best Four Seasons Hotels & Resorts in the world.

In this review (more info and photos below my YouTube video):

PROS & THINGS I LIKE

Four Seasons Hotel Astir Palace is set on a magnificent, lush peninsula in the heart of the Athenian Riviera, one of the most coveted areas in Greece. Due its sublime location, the hotel is a great choice for travelers who want to experience the best of ancient and modern Greece, weekenders from Athens or the region, families looking for a holiday that can be both fun-filled and educational, and couples who are honeymooning or renewing their lives together in one of the world’s most romantic destinations. In addition to the five-star hotel, the peninsula, stretched across 30 hectares (75 acres) of pine-dotted and scenic landscaped gardens, also comprises upscale retail & dining options, as well as high-end seafront residences. The hotel is conveniently located 25 km (16 mi) south of Athens and 24 km (15 mi) from Athens International Airport.

Before Four Seasons took over management of the property, Astir Palace had already been one of Greece’s most iconic hotels for more than 50 years. As an entity, Astir was first created in the late 1950s, gracing the magnificent pine covered peninsula of Laimos in Vouliagmeni. Two years later, in 1961, the cabanas of Astir started hosting guests, while in the golden decade of the 1960s a waterskiing school – a novelty at the time for Athens – was opened. At the same time Astir Beach of Vouliagmeni – perhaps the best swimming spot in Athens – became established as a popular meeting point. In 1967 the hotel Arion was created followed by Nafsika in 1979. Four decades later, the landmark resort on the Athens Riviera became a Four Seasons property after an extensive $700 million USD overhaul which involved a top-to-bottom renovation of the hotel’s facilities.

Drawing inspiration from the original property’s historic glamor, the ultra-luxe hotel features a magnificent design. Following its multi-year renovation, the property’s light-filled spaces exhibit a fresh, contemporary look that stylishly spills outdoors, with abundant use of natural materials throughout. K-Studio handled the architectural aspects of the renovation, while Meyer Davis and Martin Brudnizki Design Studio worked alongside it on the interior design. One of the elements that makes Four Seasons Astir Palace unique from a design perspective is the distribution of the hotel facilities over two separate buildings, called Arion and Nafiska (which operated as two independent hotels prior to the renovation). Both hotel wings feature a distinct design that defines them: Arion’s look is more sophisticated and aimed at couples and singles, while Nafiska’s decor feels more relaxed and family orientated.

The Arion building – with its modernist architecture and retro-chic design – offers a laid back vibe and distinctly sophisticated atmosphere. Upon arrival, guests are welcomed by the lobby’s minimal aesthetic, beautiful flower arrangements, and a soft color palette of sandy hues. The lobby’s elegant lounge bar has massive floor-to-ceiling windows which open to an expansive terrace with several lounge areas, offering beautiful sea views. Compared to the Nafsika building, the Arion wing has a more intimate feel, combining modern elegance with relaxed resort style. Arion is home to 101 uber-luxurious rooms and suites, two of the hotel’s restaurants -including the signature Michelin starred venue – along with the spa and indoor pool (more on that below).

At short walking distance from Arion is the Nafiska hotel wing, whose arrival courtyard is located on the building’s top floor, providing magnificent views over the Mediterranean Sea. On arrival, guests are welcomed by a lit water feature and an Antony Gormley sculpture with a backdrop that resembles a forest of illuminated pillars. Nafsika’s lively lobby features a darker color palette compared to Arion, creating a beautiful contrast with the deep blue of the Mediterranean Sea. At Nafsika, the hotel facilities cascade down from the lobby on the top floor to the immense swimming pool area below. Azure sea views dominate every single one of the building’s 133 rooms and suites – some of which are equipped with a private pool. Nafsika is also home to the social hub Avra Lounge and Terrace, two restaurants, the fitness center and several luxury boutiques.

Four Seasons Hotel Astir Palace offers a wide range of uber-luxurious accommodations, which are located in three distinct resort areas: 101 rooms and suites in the Arion building, 133 rooms and suite in the Nafsika building, and 61 hillside bungalows which are set in their own tranquil, pine-clad enclave overlooking Astir beach on the peninsula’s northern tip. Originally built in the early 1960s, the spacious sea- and garden-view are perfect for guests seeking more space and privacy, and perhaps a little nostalgia since the bungalows retain the same glamorous allure today as they did. Featuring a fresh look and up-to-date amenities for today’s travelers, all bungalows have a private villa feel and come with pools or furnished terraces. The area where the bungalows are located features its own idyllic shoreline with beach, and is just a five min stroll from the Arion building (24/7 buggy service is provided).

During my stay at Four Seasons Hotel Astir Palace, I was upgraded to the phenomenal Arion Royal Suite, one of the most incredible suites I’ve ever stayed at during all my years of traveling around the world. Located in the Arion building on the ground-level, right next to the lobby, the 310 m2 (3,336 sq.ft.) Arion Royal Suite is the hotel’s second largest suite. The regal suite featured a large living & dining room, open kitchen, TV room, office area, walk-in closet, two spacious bedrooms with kingsize beds, and two ensuite marble bathrooms, each with twin vanity sinks, deep soaking tub and separate shower. The massive suite embraced the outdoors with floor-to-ceiling windows, an expansive furnished terrace and a private pool overlooking the Aegean Sea. The Arion Royal Suite is one of the hotel’s so called signature suites, whose guests benefit from exclusive services and amenities, including meet-and-greet airport service and a dedicated personal assistant.

Helmed by Executive Chef Bertrand Valegeas who brings more than a quarter century’s experience in kitchens all over the world, Four Seasons Hotel Astir Palace’s culinary offering is as diverse as Greek culture. The sprawling property features four restaurants and three lounges & bars:
- Awarded one Michelin star, Pelagos is named after the Greek word for ocean and set within the Arion building (on the lobby level). The restaurant offers a forward-looking interpretation of fine dining using fresh seasonal produce of the Mediterranean Sea. Signature dishes include langoustine tartare with caviar sauce and Dover sole meunière with saffron hollandaise and Kalamata olives.
- Set below the Arion building and open seasonally, is Taverna 37, a fun and vibrant seafront taverna which showcases local Greek specialties. It’s a great and casual spot to share mezzes and salads, grilled lamb, chicken souvlaki and fried calamari.
- Offering a lively Latin American vibe, Helios is a poolside restaurant located below the Nafiska biulding. The menu includes zesty ceviches and tiraditos, piquant tacos, guacamole, grilled meat cuts and refreshing margaritas.
- Located within the Nafiska biulding, Mercato Restaurant brings to life the vibrance of an upscale Italian trattoria. Each morning, the venue offers a buffet breakfast (complemented by à la carte dishes) while at night, it serves authentic Italian dishes in an elegant indoor space and generous terrace overlooking the Athenian Riviera.
- Located next to Mercato, Avra is a true destination bar with striking sea-view venue, offering seasonal cocktails, fine drinking, elevated bar snacks and live DJs.
- Astron is a light-filled lounge bar in the lobby of the Arion building. A great spot for mingling with friends, Astron offers stylish drinks, a variety of desserts, delicious bar snacks and an extensive champagne list.
- With golden-age glamour, the hotel’s exclusive cigar lounge – located next to the lobby in the Arion wing – pairs the world’s finest cigars with rare cognacs, whiskeys and a craft cocktail list.
- Besides its own culinary concepts, the hotel also offers easy access to other marquee restaurants on the Astir Peninsula including Nobu’s Matsuhisa Athens and the steach restuarant Beefbar Athens

One of Four Seasons Hotel Astir Palace’s best selling points is its enormous private shoreline, which looks out over the shimmering blue waters of vast, well-sheltered Vouliagmeni Bay. Two private golden sand beaches are strung together by a 300 m (1000 ft) seafront boardwalk, which connects the Arion and Nafiska buildings. On top of that is the area with the bungalows, which features its own private beach (next to the public Astir beach) as well as several quiet coves, lapped by the calm waters of the bay. All beaches as well as the boardwalk and the coves feature dozens of comfortable sun loungers, more than enough to accommodate all guests even during times of high occupancy. Along the boardwalk, below the Arion building is is a watersport center which offers a myriad of watersports from windsurfing to sea kayaking plus a sunset sail every evening.

Dotted along Four Seasons Hotel Astir Palace’s boardwalk are three swmming pools, two of which are located outdoors. The largest, Olympic-size swimming pool is found in front of the Nafiska building. Seemingly floating on the tranquil waters of Vouliagmeni Bay, the enormous pool is surrounded by plenty of chic sunbeds and umbrellas. Open to guests of all ages, the Nafiska swimming pool is particulary popular among families with younger children and teenagers. A second outdoor swimming pool is found on the spa level of the Arion building. This adults-only, infinity pool is not as large as the Nafiska but is offers a more tranquil and serene ambiance as well as stunning sea views due to its elevated position. Complimentary sunscreen is offered at both pools as well as amenities throughout the day (e.g. ice pops, frozen fruits, and ice tea shots). The third, indoor lap pool is located within the spa complex (more on that below).

Taking to heart the sage words of Hippocrates – “Cure sometimes, treat often, comfort always” – The Spa at Four Seasons Astir Palace Hotel Athens offers a comprehensive menu of treatments and services attuned to modern life. Inspired by ancient Greek traditions, the Fountain House is the spa’s hydrotherapy adults-only zone and features state-of-the-art facilities that include an aroma steam grotto, hammam, vitality pool and chill showers. An arcade-like corridor, which is illuminated by daylight filtered through wooden ceiling slats, leads guests to the treatment rooms. Signature treatments created especially for the spa include the two-hour Iremia Stillness Recovery Ritual (“a blissful, nurturing treatment for physically or emotionally exhausted souls,” recommends Lefebvre); the 90-minute Epanorthosi Green Caviar Repair that addresses issues of ageing and environmental damage to the skin; and the Frodida Body Ritual (60, 90 or 120 minutes), which is carefully tailored to individual wants and needs by the Spa’s caring therapists.

Back in the 1960s and 1970s – forget Mykonos – Astir Palace was the place to see and be seen (and that’s still the case). The last famous guest of Astir Palace before it transitioned to a Four Seasons Hotel was USA President Barack Obama. But the list of the world-renowned figures that have graced its suites & cabanas, restaurants & bars, and beaches & gardens is long: Margaret Thatcher, Jimmy Carter, John F. Kennedy, Francois Mitterrand, Boris Yeltsin, Mikhail Gorbachev, Giscard d’Estaing, Helmut Kohl, Frank Sinatra, Jacqueline Bisset, Brigitte Bardot, Telly Savalas, Paul Newman, John Wayne, The Beatles, Charles Aznavour, Isabella Rossellini and Pierce Brosnan are just some of them. It is said that at Astir Palace, the King of Saudi Arabia Ibn Saud would hand out gold watches as tips when he would book an entire floor at the hotel for himself and his royal entourage. Aristotle Onassis, Ioannis Latsis and Constantinos Karamanlis, as well as almost the entirety of the Greek elite including the stars of the Greek film industry were once among its regular clientele.

Astir Palace is managed by Four Seasons, probably the best known luxury hotel brand in the world. The Toronto-based company has transformed the hospitality industry in a tale of continual innovation, remarkable expansion and a single-minded dedication to the highest of standards. Four Seasons was founded in 1960 by the young architect Isadore Sharp, but the real breakthrough of the brand came in the seventies with the opening of the Four Seasons London. Although the company went public in 1986, the Sharp family – along with a group of like-minded investors such as Bill Gates and Saudi Prince Al-Waleed bin Talal – took the company private again in 2007 to protect the integrity of the brand well into the future. Four Seasons currently manages more than 120 hotels and resorts worldwide. The company also offers private jet travel onboard its own Airbus A321 (with all Business Class layout), and will soon launch private ultra-luxe yacht itineraries.

CONS & THINGS TO KNOW

Although Astir Palace is a well-known iconic hotel within Greece, it doesn’t have the same international reputation as the hotels on the popular Greek Islands. That’s because most international travelers to Greece will skip the Athens Riviera and head to the Greek islands for their vacation. However, the Athens Riviera is a glamorous area and the Four Seasons Hotel Astir Palace is a spectacular property that is far superior to any hotel found on the Greek Islands. It is a destination in itself, offering an incredible array of restaurants, bars, pools, and beaches. Also, it’s a true beach resort and not just a place to stay overnight in Athens: the capital’s tourist attractions are nearby but many guests hardly leave the ultra-luxe Four Seasons property after entering its incredible and spectacular resort grounds.

Although the grounds of Four Seasons Hotel Astrid Palace have palatial dimensions, the hotel is not a palace, contrary to what its name may suggest (and I am not sure where the name comes from). As already mentioned, the hotel is comprised of two large hotel buildings, partly hidden in the pine trees along the shoreline. The two buildings are not particularly attractive from the outside and their condo-alike exteriors do not evoke the thoughts of a palace (although the interiors feature a stunningly sleek and modern design).

MY VERDICT

Location: 10/10
Design: 9/10
Pool: 10/10
Rooms: 10/10
Food: 10/10
Breakfast: 10/10
Spa: 10/10
Service: 10/10
Wow factor: 9/10
Value for money: 9/10
Overall experience: 9,7 (exceptional hotel!)

TIPS FOR FUTURE GUESTS & SAVE MONEY

Save money: get complimentary VIP perks at Four Seasons Hotel Astir Palace when booking via Virtuoso (e.g. room upgrade, daily breakfast, early check-in, late check-out, and $100 USD resort credit).

Save money: read here my tips for getting the best deal at a luxury hotel like Four Seasons Astir Palace Hotel (and/or receive many free perks).

Save money: get complimentary VIP perks at Four Seasons Hotel Astir Palace when booking via Virtuoso (e.g. room upgrade, daily breakfast, early check-in, late check-out, and $100 USD resort credit).

Room tip: couples and singles will prefer the serenity of the Arion building, while families will feel more at home at Nafsika.

Read my tips for preparing your trip in time.

BEST TIME TO VISIT

The best times to visit Athens are spring (March to May) and autumn (September to November), when the weather is nice, mild and sunny. In addition, crowds are thinner at these times and hotel and airfare deals are easier to come by than in summer. Though chilly, Athens’ winters are relatively mild and dry, thanks in part to Greece’s Mediterranean location, and can also be a nice time for a city trip. Summer is from June through August, and brings intolerable heat, hordes of tourists, and high room rates to the Greek capital, so exploring town is both uncomfortable and expensive during this time.

HOW TO GET THERE

Athens’ Eleftherios Venizelos International Airport (ATH) is a 30-min drive from Four Seasons Hotel Astir Palace. Click here for a list of airlines that offer direct flights to the Greek capital.

PHOTOS

Below is a selection of my photos of Four Seasons Hotel Astir Palace. To view more photos (including dinner at Michelin-starred restaurant Pelagos), click here.